Resin miniatures offer the perfect combination of detail and durability, with crisp edges, intricate textures, and the sharp surface quality that makes modern resin printing so popular among hobbyists. This allows artists and gamers alike to bring truly incredible models to the tabletop.
Those new to resin miniatures should understand that they differ from traditional plastic kits in a few important ways. So this article will help explain what they should know before assembling and painting them.
The good news is that working with modern resin miniatures is more straightforward than ever, and a few simple techniques and precautions will help you get the best possible results.
It Starts With Proper Post-Processing
Before one of our miniatures ever reaches your hobby desk, the most important preparation work has already been completed. At Sigmarite Boutique, every resin miniature and base goes through a multi-stage post-processing workflow designed to maximize detail, durability, and surface quality.
Models are printed with settings designed to maximize surface details while reducing layer lines or 'stepping' on flat surfaces. Freshly printed models move to a heated degreasing bath inside an ultrasonic cleaner, which helps remove uncured resin within internal hollowing and other fine detail areas that would otherwise be difficult to clean thoroughly.
Supports are then removed while the model remains slightly warm and flexible. Removing supports at this stage significantly reduces support marks and helps prevent damage to delicate details. At this point every model gets it first inspection for defects, and models that are not up to standards are discarded and reprinted.
The miniature is then transferred to a dedicated solvent bath to remove any remaining traces of uncured resin before receiving a final rinse in fresh water to eliminate any residual cleaning solution.
Models are air dried and once the model is completely clean and dry it gets a second inspection for defects or other errors. It is then fully cured inside a UV curing chamber, and hollow models are further cured internally via UV LEDs that are small enough to insert through the drainage holes.
The result is that you receive a model that is ready for assembly, priming, and painting.
Always Test Fit Before Gluing
Not all models need assembly, but resin miniatures often feature more complex assemblies than traditional plastic kits. This is especially true when dealing with large creatures, vehicles, aircraft, and multipart characters. Some of our largest vehicle kits can have as many as sixty parts that will all need to be glued.
One thing to remember before reaching for the glue, always take a few moments to dry-fit the pieces. Testing the fit allows you to understand how the model goes together and identify any areas that may benefit from minor cleanup before assembly or gap filling. A few seconds spent test fitting can prevent frustration later.
The Right Glue
One of the most common questions we receive is whether plastic cement will work on resin, and the answer is most definitely no.
Plastic cement works by chemically melting polystyrene plastic, which means it has no effect on cured resin. Instead, we recommend using cyanoacrylate adhesive, more commonly known as super glue, and for the vast majority of smaller parts, standard super glue works perfectly.
For larger kits, consider a gel-style super glue, as it provides slightly more working time and can help fill tiny gaps between parts. If the gap is more significant, any of the standard two-part hobby epoxies, like green stuff, works well and will also bond well with resin surfaces.Â
If you're assembling a large multipart kit, avoid using too much glue. A small amount of super glue on clean mating surfaces will usually create a stronger bond than flooding the joint with adhesive.
Sanding, Cleanup, And Your Safety
Modern resin printers and high definition resins produce exceptionally detailed models, but occasional cleanup may still be required. Small support marks, contact points, or assembly surfaces can usually be cleaned up with hobby files, sanding sticks, or fine-grit sandpaper.
There are two caveats to this, patience and dust control. Resin produces very fine dust when sanded, and it's always better to remove a little material at a time rather than trying to fix everything in a single pass. Additionally, that dust is a airway irritant and breathing it can cause discomfort or other allergic or chemical reactions.
To control dust, try wet sanding by dipping the surface or your sanding medium in water to trap the dust and prevent it from becoming airborne. Additionally working in a properly ventilated area with an appropriate respirator provides a layer of protection for your lungs.Â
Fortunately, most models won't require any sanding and when it does cleanup usually only takes a few minutes before a model is ready for assembly.
Drilling And Pinning
For larger models, pinning can provide additional strength and durability. Modern designers of multipart models frequently include an integrated male/female component that provides alignment and strength, but if not, pinning is something to consider.
Pinning involves drilling small holes into two connecting parts and inserting a metal rod, paperclip, or pin between them before gluing. If you plan to try pinning, buy a purpose specific model drill or pin vise, which will make the job easy.
While many smaller miniatures do not require pinning, it can be especially useful for:
- Large monsters
- Heavy weapons
- Wings
- Aircraft
- Vehicles
- Large multipart kits
While pinning produces some dust, it tends to be less fine than the dust produced during sanding. Regardless, there is no harm in following the same precautions.
A properly pinned joint significantly increases the strength of a model and provides some additional peace of mind during transport and gameplay.
Prime Before Painting
Once assembly is complete, it's time for primer. Just like with plastic models, priming helps paint adhere properly and can also highlight any small imperfections that may have been missed during assembly.
Consider priming as a final inspection stage to spot any tiny gaps, artifacts, or support marks that are difficult to spot on bare resin. These often become visible once the first coat of primer is applied, and if you find something that needs attention, it's much easier to fix before the paint job begins.
Modern Resins Are More Durable Than You Think
Resin miniatures have a reputation for being fragile, and while that may have been especially true of some early materials, modern resins are much less brittle. They will still be more brittle than injection molded plastics, and care must still be taken with thin, unsupported pieces like sword blades, weapon barrels and the like, but don't be surprised when a modern resin model survives a fall from the tabletop.
At Sigmarite Boutique, we use modern high-definition ABS-like resin formulations that provide significantly improved durability and flexibility compared to older hobby resins while still capturing the sharp details that make resin miniatures so appealing.
Like any miniature, resin models should be handled with reasonable care, but they don't need to be hidden away on a shelf, they can and should be enjoyed on the tabletop!
Enjoy The Hobby
Our advice is this: Don't overthink it. Resin miniatures aren't difficult to work with, a little test fitting, proper glue, light cleanup, and a good primer are usually all that's required before the fun part begins.
Whether you're building a massive sci-fi vehicle, a fantasy warband, or a centerpiece monster, modern resin miniatures offer incredible detail and a rewarding hobby experience.
Looking for your next project? Explore our collection of fantasy miniatures, sci-fi miniatures, and premium resin bases.